Visiting Greenland was a childhood dream: to go on an adventure to a place with fjords, rugged mountains and glaciers around every corner, meeting interesting people and most of all to feel like an explorer from the old days. With around 2,600 inhabitants scattered across several small villages and Tasiilaq as its economical center you could consider East Greenland as scarcely populated. Tasiilaq would be the base of my trip from which we are exploring different locations. The aim was to get an impression of the different corners of this region. Visit impressive landscapes only accessible by boat, but also hike around to discover places closer to Tasiilaq.
Out of the 2,600 inhabitants of the region around 1,800 live in Tasiilaq. Some villages only have around 80 inhabitants currently living there.
I reached out to Lars from Arctic Dream for him to help me figure out the logistics of a journey through East Greenland. With a specialized boat we were able to go through shallow waters, but also conquer the higher waves of the open ocean, which was quite the challenge for my non-seaworthy stomach.
Tasiilaq from a distance. Photo by Chris König – Visit Greenland
An awe inspiring place one can visit in East Greenland is the Knud Rasmussen Glacier. From Tasiilaq it takes a couple of hours to reach the glacier by boat, but these hours are well spent. We sail next to enormous icebergs and behind every mountain peak there is another one, maybe even more impressive than the last one.
The Knud Rasmussen Glacier was discovered in the early 1900’s by – of course – Knud Rasmussen. As an arctic explorer and anthropologist he undertook multiple expeditions into the area.
We can get very close to the base of the glacier, however, we always had to keep in mind that the ice is constantly calving and huge pieces can break off any moment. A spectacle to witness and to be up close to this kilometers long wall of ice offers impressive sights.
Knud Rasmussen glacier. Photo by Chris König
Tasiilaq is surrounded by multiple smaller villages like Tiniteqilaaq (Tiilerilaaq) and Kuummiut. For our trip we take the boat to visit the villages and get a better impression of what local life would be like. The first thing I notice when arriving in the docks is all the wooden structures used to dry fish, seals and even polar bear hide. Life isn’t always easy and being prepared against all conditions means you have to keep yourself warm and dry. All parts of the hunted animals are useful and used. One of the main sources of income is still fishing; life in these villages can be so secluded that other means of work are sometimes sparse. Going out by boat to put the fish nets in place and scouting for seals can be lucrative business on a good day. It is intriguing to see how much local knowledge there is around topics like fishing which you won’t find in the books, but these are handed down from generation to generation.
Father and son fishing in the fjord. Photo by Chris König
In Tasiilaq you’ll find everything you’d need. Two shops, a clinic and a large school. However, people are still really depending on the icebreaker that comes in every week for a stock resupply. Life in this region of Greenland is so different from what I am used to, but even more admirable what people achieve in these rough circumstances. A harsh life, but surrounded by the most inspiring natural elements.
Tiniteqilaaq. Photo by Chris König
Based on my own experience I would recommend to spend at least a week around East Greenland. Preferably more days to ensure you will beat the bad weather. The main means of transportation around East Greenland would be by boat. The road network doesn’t extend beyond Tasiilaq, but most of the water in the fjords is relatively calm and therefore perfect for both transportation as well as sightseeing.
Magestic East Greenalnd Nature. Photo by Chris König – Visit Greenland
As for a period to travel I had a very positive experience in September. During the middle of Summer (June – August) there are more mosquitoes, but also more flowers. September can be unpredictable, but generally a quiet month and perfect for exploration. A winter experience to East Greenland is a whole other story with many adventures to be had.
When staying in Tasiilaq we had the luxury of a comfortable guesthouse with all services and necessities you’d need for your base; which is the most comfortable approach for a trip through East Greenland. Stay in Tasiilaq for the nights and explore the surrounding area by day.
The beautiful fjords and mountain scenery in the region. Photo by Chris König
Supporting local tourism is very important for the economical growth of the region and the development of the infrastructure. Currently, there are two options to eat out in Tasiilaq. You can also have dinner cooked during organized tours at The Red House, or in Hotel Angmagssalik. By booking a tour in East Greenland directly with local partners, more inhabitants get to be employed as guide, boat driver or logistical support. There will be more foreign language proficiency, educational levels increase and it is an upward spiral from there.
Continues further down the page...
