You cannot visit Greenland without undertaking a sailing journey. Here, the highways are not roads but vast oceans and fjords, and no route is more iconic than the Sarfaq Ittuk passenger ferry, which makes its weekly loop along the west coast from Ilulissat in the north to Qaqortoq in the south.
Coastal sailing in Greenland is more than a spectacular nature experience—it’s a glimpse into Greenlandic life. Unlike Arctic cruises designed for tourists, Sarfaq Ittuk usually carries more locals than travelers. For Greenlanders, it’s a way of life, and how lucky we are that it happens to be such a beautiful way to travel.
Aboard Sarfaq Ittuk, you have a special window on the Greenlandic world. Dining alongside Greenlanders in the communal café and taking in the same magnificent view from the upper decks, you have every chance to strike up a conversation and hear stories you won’t find anywhere on the Internet. At the end of the journey, watch as your new friend reunites with her family on the dock, and know that you are witness to something unique to Greenland.
“We had the chance to take a standard cruise to Greenland, but we preferred this kind of ship experience – being with the locals and meeting people. It is nicer!”
About the Ferry
The ship is owned by Arctic Umiaq Line and is the only passenger ferry in Greenland. It can carry 238 passengers (each with a sleeping berth) and is a key link for the 12 settlements, towns and cities along its route. For the very smallest settlements, it is sometimes the only link to the rest of Greenland and the outside world, and for this reason, you will primarily find local Greenlanders aboard – especially south of Nuuk.For international tourists, it is a chance to slow down and travel as the locals do. It is usually less expensive than flying and offers the opportunity to see parts of Greenland that would otherwise be difficult to access. Seabirds accompany the ship throughout its voyage and, if you are traveling in the correct season, there is also the possibility of spotting whales and seals along the journey.
It is one of the best experiences available on a trip to West or South Greenland.
Planning and Preparing for a trip on Sarfaq Ittuk
How and when to book
Sarfaq Ittuk sails between Qaqortoq (South Greenland) and Sisimiut (Destination Arctic Circle) from March/April till early January and from Qaqortoq to Ilulissat (North Greenland) from May to January, with July and August being the peak months. If you are planning to travel during the peak, it is best to book as early as possible to ensure you secure your choice of accommodation on board and your desired departure dates.
The easiest way to book is online at the Sarfaq Ittuk booking page. Here you select your dates, your origin and destination, your style of accommodation, and whether you would like to pre-book meals on board. The whole process takes a few minutes and provides you with your ticket and vouchers for any meals. Both of these must be printed and brought with you to the ferry.
Getting to and from the Ferry
Although the Sarfaq Ittuk Ferry has 12 stops along its journey, there are 3 main access points for travelers coming from abroad.
If you want to complete the entire journey, you should fly into either Ilulissat in the North or Narsarsuaq in the South. Air Greenland offers flights to both destinations during the summer from Copenhagen and Reykjavik, and Icelandair does the same from Reykjavik. On days where there are no direct flights, you can reach either of these destinations with Air Greenland via Kangerlussuaq (from Denmark) or Nuuk (From Denmark or USA), or fly to Nuuk with Icelandair and take a domestic Air Greenland flight from there.
If you choose to fly into Narsarsuaq in South Greenland, you will then need to get yourself from there to either Qaqortoq or Narsaq in order to catch the ferry (Narsarsuaq is not on the ferry route). This can be arranged as a helicopter flight with Air Greenland, or as a boat trip with Disko Line or Blue Ice Explorer.
For those who only have time to complete half the journey, you will either start or end your trip in Nuuk, Greenland’s capital city.
If you are already in Greenland, Air Greenland offers domestic flights to many of the towns along the ferry route. Check their schedule to see all the different options. It is also possible to reach some of the ferry ports by boat, if you are already in the area. Disko Line runs transfers between Ilulissat, Qeqertarsuaq and Aasiaat in the Disko Bay area, and both Disko Line and Blue Ice Explorer run transfers to Qaqortoq or Narsaq in the South.
A new hydrophone station in Disko Bay, Greenland, allows listeners to experience the rich underwater soundscape live through https://diskolive.com/sounds-underwater. This initiative is part of the Disko Live! research project, aimed at connecting science with society by studying the sounds of Arctic marine life, icebergs cracking, and ‘modern’ sounds like ships sailing by. Data gathered will be used to communicate findings on climate change and modernisation impacts.
What to bring for your journey
Dressing in layers is key for any Arctic trip. Sarfaq Ittuk’s interior is comfortably heated, so long sleeves and a light jacket are enough indoors. But if you want to step onto the deck for the stunning views and fresh air (highly recommended!), bring warm, windproof layers—even in summer. At the start or end of the season, a heavy jacket and pants are essential for extended time outside.
A camera is a must to capture Greenland’s landscapes from the sea. Whales can often be spotted along the route, so dress warmly enough to enjoy the view from the deck.
Cold temperatures drain batteries faster, so bring spares or a power bank. There are plenty of outlets on board, including charging lockers for valuables, but you don’t want to run out of power at the perfect photo moment.
Binoculars are great for getting a closer look at the coastline, spotting birds, and watching for whales and seals. If you forget yours, simple binoculars are available for purchase on board.
Highlights of the trip
The journey on Sarfaq Ittuk is a highlight in itself. The intimacy of the ferry and the ease with which you can meet locals and connect with other travelers is a unique experience that is difficult to replicate elsewhere. And although the scenery along the entire route is wonderful, some particular highlights include
Calling in at each of the settlements. Every one of them is different. Every one of them is interesting. It is a curious question to stand on the outer deck during a 15-minute stop and ask yourself whether you could see yourself living in such close quarters and such isolation from the rest of the world.
The fjords between Narsaq and Arsuk. Traveling through the maze of broken coastline of South Greenland makes you realise just how uninhabited the landscape is. And while you won’t spot any humans, the shoreline is so close that if you keep a sharp eye out, you may get lucky and spot a reindeer or musk ox.
The Paamiut glacier. Approximately 2-3 hours north of Paamiut, the great Greenland ice sheet almost reaches the ocean. At this point, the ship is out in open ocean, but you can see the ice sheet stretching towards the sea with the naked eye, and even better through binoculars.
From Maniitsoq to Kangaamiut. Just north of Maniitsoq lies a region of jagged peaks and glaciers that is incredibly beautiful. The hardest thing to decide is which side of the ship to be on, as the views are stunning in every direction.
Disko Bay. Between Aasiaat and Ilulissat you will sail past enormous icebergs and have a good chance to spot whales. Keep a sharp eye out and have your camera ready to capture both spectacles during the several hours it takes to cross this enormous bay.
Life on board Sarfaq Ittuk
The weekly visits of the ferry provide an important connection to the outside world, especially for the smaller settlements. Often, crowds of people wait at the harbour to meet the ship and welcome (or see off) loved ones
Try to witness each of these dockings. The smiles, the laughter, and the tears of greetings and goodbyes is special and real, and the waving continues long after the ship has cast off and resumed its journey.
With daylight limitations a distant memory from the south, your own energy level and thirst for exploration are free to set the schedule. At the harbor, fishing boats file in one by one after a full day at sea. Watch as they return home with long shadows trailing in their wakes. Or push forward into the night on your outdoor adventure to see the mountains and sea cloaked in every shade of gold.
Coastal ferry ship guide
There is a great amount of freedom on Sarfaq Ittuk to fall in line with the local way and to make your own adventure out of the voyage. But for those who wish for a bit of guidance, the Ship Guide is there during the high season purely to make sure your coastal sailing trip runs smoothly.
In summertime, the coastal ferry Ship Guide arranges afternoon activities on board, and since Sarfaq Ittuk is only so big, he or she is always around and happy to answer questions.
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