Learn more
Qaanaaq, here I am again
When I first visited Qaanaaq, I never imagined I would return like this. Yet, after two years, I found myself back in Qaanaaq, evoking a strange sense of familiarity. Upon entering Qaanaaq airport, a voice called out my name—it was Davi! That little boy had already grown taller than me. Well, it’s a secret that I’m not particularly tall, but still.
This trip wouldn’t have been possible without Hans from Hotel Qaanaaq (Currently closed down). Two years ago, he provided me with invaluable information about Qaanaaq. When I asked him if he needed anything from Nuuk, he immediately mentioned a specific type of cheese. He must have missed it dearly, considering the last supply ship to Qaanaaq arrived 10 months ago. Anticipating his presence at the airport, I packed that pungent cheese securely in the outer pocket of my backpack. As soon as I spotted him, I handed it over. When he reached for his wallet, I grasped his hands and said, “Ajunngilaq.” In this context, it means “it’s okay, you don’t need to do that” in Greenlandic. Seeing familiar faces at the airport made me feel as if I had returned to my old home. I felt incredibly fortunate to have familiar acquaintances at the top of the world! I booked the same accommodation where I stayed before, and the house owner eagerly awaited my arrival, along with the Korean TV documentary crew.
This time, Qaanaaq was merely a stopover. We were scheduled to fly to Siorapaluk in two days, but unfortunately, the helicopter flights were canceled due to bad weather. The following day brought the same disappointing news. However, on Sunday, a glimmer of hope emerged. Despite locals mentioning that there would be no flights on Sundays, I decided to verify by calling the Qaanaaq airport. To my surprise, the airport staff confirmed that we could indeed fly. My team and I hastily packed our belongings and made our way to the airport.