So, back to the curious bear. By far the least predictable and highest impact risks to the independent traveller in Greenland are polar bears. There are plenty of places where your chances of an encounter are vanishingly small (such as the large majority of the West Coast). However, if you venture into East Greenland, even in the relatively accessible areas around Kulusuk and Tasiilaq, you are in the curious bear’s habitat and you will need to be armed, or with someone who is. You can buy a high calibre rifle in Greenland in the supermarket, without a license. Yes, in all seriousness. But, unless you have the experience in knowing how to use one, and ideally first-hand knowledge of polar bears, then don’t even think about it. This leads to perhaps the best advice for independent travel in Greenland. Consider hiring a guide. On the West Coast, it is a luxury, and many boat charter companies can help you with that, and all the gear and experience you may want for getting into the wilds. On the East Coast, it is essential – for your own safety. Fortunately, there are also operators based on the East Coast, or who can manage logistics on the East Coast for you, and who will cater to your aspirations. Think about it like travelling to an exotic location and asking a tuk-tuk or taxi driver to take you to the hidden spots. This fjord looks incredible on Google Earth, this mountain looks hikeable, we could paddle up these rivers and find some spots to pitch a tent and fish. Local knowledge, and the local skills necessary to protect you, are the keys to an independent travel experience in Greenland.