In Tasiusaq, the feeling of ultimate freedom is no further away than the bay where the large chunks of floating ice gather.
Here, you can lodge with sheep farmers Aviaja and Klaus with one of Greenland’s best views across lush, flowering meadows.
Or you can bring your own tent on the approximately two hour long hike along the tractor track towards the west from the settlement of Qassiarsuk.
Besides the option to hire kayaks and to get really close to the floating ice in the bay, there is also a good opportunity to fish for trout.
At night-time, the chance of seeing the northern lights and shooting stars is great here, where there are many kilometers to anything that resembles artificial light.
GASTRONOMY IN THE GREENLANDIC WILDERNESS
You will experience a sense of standing with one leg in civilization and the other leg in the wilderness in Ipiutaq, which is the most remote sheep farm on the Narsaq peninsula. If you have heavy equipment with you, the farm is about a two-day hike from Qassiarsuk in a north-easterly direction and Narsaq in a south-westerly direction.
This is where you will get up close and personal with the host family; people who battle every day to cultivate the nutrient-poor soil and who live under considerably different conditions than you are used to from home.
Most of the installations in Ipiutaq are built with self-sufficiency in mind – for example, the small windmill and the well, the water level of which is carefully monitored in the summer’s dry periods.
It is an impressive performance when the hostess, Agathe Devisme, dishes up her French-Greenlandic gastronomy, especially seen in the light of Ipiutaq’s scarce resources. The portions are small, but delicate and there is great probability that the dinner will consist of locally caught or locally picked ingredients, such as trout, angelica or harebells. The probability that you will see jumping whales in Eriks Fjord while you enjoy your dinner is somewhat smaller.
Nonetheless, it was precisely this magical moment that occurred during this writer’s unforgettable stay at Ipiutaq Guest Farm.
The Ipiutaq farm has been put up for sale, so the summer season in 2017 will be the last chance to visit the place with Agathe and Kalista as hosts.
If you would like to experience life on a South Greenland sheep farm, this is still also possible with, for example, Ellen and Carl Frederiksen, who own Illunnguujuk Hostel in Qassiarsuk, Elna Jensen and Henrik Knudsen in Sillisit, or the young couple Naasu and Piitaq Lund, who operate Inneruulalik Guest Farm from where they also offer riding holidays.